Shikoku is not immediately top of mind for many visitors to Japan, but that is slowly but surely changing. The pilgrimage to the 88 temples, the gardens of Takamatsu, and the still-pristine nature in various places make it a welcome change from the sometimes very busy main island with its tourist hotspots. It is a warm region, appreciated for its hospitality and culinary tradition, not based on premium products but on flavor and heartiness.

The sake from Kochi has long had an interesting reputation: light, intense, but dry. The most important thing was that the sake was easy to drink. However, in the late 1990s, the focus shifted toward aromatic, fruity sake types, mainly under the influence of regions like Hyogo and Hiroshima, where a combination of local rice varieties and soft water made Ginjo and Daiginjo sake more popular. In Kochi, an initiative was launched to develop yeast cultures that could lead to greater aromatic intensity without suppressing the smooth character that had been appreciated for ages. The ‘CEL’ series is the showpiece of the Kochi brewers. The most famous CEL yeast is CEL-24, first commercialized by Kameizumi, but in recent years various derivatives have been introduced, all of which have their own identity.

Kawazawa-shuzo is one of the youngest sake breweries in Japan, founded in 2024. The toji, Kawazawa Tohru, is no stranger to us, however, as until shortly before the start of this new adventure, he was the head brewer at Kameizumi Shuzo! Together with his wife, he decided a few years ago to leave Kameizumi and start anew, on a small scale with barely 50,000 bottles per year, but with respect for the identity of Kochi. Local water, local rice, and local culture in a bottle.

The couple bought an old sawmill that they initially thought they would convert into a brewery at the foot of Mount Kanpuzan. It is in the middle of nowhere, which says a lot even for Kochi, but it is a beautiful piece of nature. The name ‘Yama ni Kumo Ga’ refers to the clouds that roll over Mount Kanpuzan, and which are reflected in the labels. The sake had already appeared on our radar last year, and during a visit in February, we were so impressed that we are starting with two references right away.