During the sake boom of the 1980s, Japan experienced an unprecedented surge in consumption. Big names like Konishi, Kenbishi, and Gekkeikan could barely keep up with demand and therefore called on smaller breweries to expand their production capacity. For these subcontractors, this meant a period of growth: they invested in large facilities and produced on an industrial scale.

When the market cooled in the early 1990s and the major brands ended their contracts, the curtain fell for many of these breweries. Some closed permanently, but a few seized the opportunity to reinvent themselves—with their own style, their own story.

Taga Shuzo, a longtime producer for Gekkeikan, saw its production drop from millions of liters to just 40,000 liters per year. Instead of scale, quality remained the guiding principle. The brewery, located in Shiga Prefecture, opted for a small-scale approach with room for experimentation and refinement.

Today, Taga is known for its elegant junmai ginjo, a sake with a remarkably pure profile and delicate aromas. The limited production allows for meticulous control over every detail of the brewing process—from rice selection to fermentation. This freedom has resulted in a style distinguished by finesse and balance.

For importers and enthusiasts, Taga exemplifies how experience and craftsmanship, regardless of brand name or volume, can result in sake with character. The brewery proves that starting over doesn't mean going back, but looking forward—with a distinctive voice in a market that increasingly values authenticity.